Vin jaune from eastern France is ‘the durian of the wine world’, beloved and hated in equal measure

Vin jaune (“yellow wine”) is the durian of the wine world. It has a strong, distinctive smell and taste that you either love or hate.The wine is made from a quirky grape, called savagnin, that isn’t widely grown anywhere in France but the Jura, a region situated east of Burgundy, towards Switzerland (a small amount is grown in that country, where it is known as haiden or heida). At only 1,600 hectares, the Jura is the smallest of all AOC (appellation d’origine contrôlée) regions, with…