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Alain Ducasse on the plane crash that changed the course of his life, vegan desserts and Chinese caviar

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Kitchen nightmare I was born in 1956 and grew up on our family farm in Castel-Sarrazin, in southwestern France. My memories of the farm are of the smells that nurtured my passion for cooking: the smell of home-cooked food like mushrooms, vegetables, veal blanquette. And then I started to taste.When I was 12, I decided to become a chef, before I had stepped into a professional kitchen or restaurant, much to my mother’s despair. She sent me to work at a roadside restaurant for truckers, which…

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