In 2011, 25-year-old Vicky Cheng arrived in Hong Kong with no job and no plans. With the excuse of renewing his Hong Kong ID card, the young chef – who grew up in Canada and had trained at Toronto’s Auberge du Pommier restaurant and under Daniel Boulud at his eponymous New York eatery – had returned to his city of birth. He was quickly snatched up by the Liberty group, where he helmed three restaurants.
Fast forward 4½ years, and Cheng opened VEA, in Central, serving...
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