When my Ah Ma (paternal grandmother) cooked, she did so lavishly. With the help of my father and me – once I had grown tall enough to reach the counters – she prepared meals for 20 or more of our extended family every Saturday and Sunday. Her Sunday lunches were simpler than the Saturday dinners but they were equally delicious.
If she was planning to make sui gau (water dumplings) or wonton, she would phone my mother the night before to ask how many of the dumplings my brothers and...
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