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How a Japanese chef uses colour, or lack thereof, to highlight the flavours of his monochromatic dishes

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Is this your first trip to Hong Kong? “This is my second time here – the first time was 20 years ago so I don’t remember much. This time I have been eating a lot of local food, like congee and wonton noodles. I’m interested in what locals eat every day.” What are your childhood memo­ries of food? “My mother is good at cooking and I remember her miso soups and stews. When I was young I would invite my friends to come to my house to eat dinner after school...

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