When I was growing up in California, our Japanese neighbours would often invite us over on hot days for a lunch of cold noodles. Although ethnically Japanese, the family hailed from Hawaii, and therefore had a more casual approach to meals than people raised in Japan, but still, it was always an impressive spread. In the centre of the table would be a huge bowl of noodles in ice water, from which we would help ourselves. We’d have individual cups of dipping sauce, and there would be an...
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