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Winemaker Emma Gao on why she left France for her native China

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When did you first taste wine? “I was 22 years old, at a tasting class in Orange, a small village in Provence, in the south of France. My father had sent me there to study wine at viticulture school. There was a teacher talking about wine, and there was cheese and bread. I didn’t understand how to drink it so I got drunk very quickly. I just thought, ‘It’s drinkable so it’s OK.’ I couldn’t appreciate it. Before that I had only drunk beer and sweet...

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