Indian cooking – or to be precise, good Indian cooking – is a wonderfully complex blend of spices and flavours. Much of what the average restaurant serves is not good Indian cooking: all the dishes taste the same, as if the cooks have three sauces simmering in pots, to which they add paneer, chicken, vegetables or fish, according to what the customer orders.
In Classic Indian Cooking, Julie Sahni tries to make preparing Indian food sound easy. She writes: “There is no mystical...
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