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Hot chocolate soufflé, lamb roulade, pigeon ravioli: how chef Jacques Maximin breathed new life into French cuisine

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The cuisine of Nice, on the French Riviera, in southeast France, sounds simple, healthy and light – highly appealing if you are a wealthy holiday-maker sunning yourself in a skimpy swimsuit on your superyacht. To Jacques Maximin, who was raised in Pas-de-Calais, in the country’s far north, and trained at top restaurants such as Le Pré Catelan, in Paris, and Le Moulin de Mougins, the food must have seemed monotonous after he moved there in 1978 as chef of Le Chantecler.In the preface to his book…

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