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Matthew Kirkley of Belon, French fine-dining restaurant in Hong Kong, on why he’s the right chef to step into Daniel Calvert’s shoes

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Why did you decide to be a chef? “It’s simple. When I was 15, my father told me to go out and get a job. I started at a restaurant in suburban Maryland, as a busboy, but in the US you need a minor’s permit to work if you’re under 16. I couldn’t work past 6pm, but they liked having me there and put me in the kitchen. “At first it was just an escape from school, but I quickly got attached to the lifestyle. As I got more involved, I realised I had a passion for it and I’ve been doing it ever since…

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