Russian author Anya von Bremzen has observed how the cuisine of Spain has changed over the many years she has been returning there.
“The first time I visited the country was in the early eighties, as it was awakening from the isolation and destitution of the Franco years,” she writes in the introduction to The New Spanish Table (2005). “I was instantly smitten with the regional rigour, the immense pull of traditions, the purity and warmth of the food culture […] When I...
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