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Secrets of a US$35 soy sauce sun-dried and double fermented in Hong Kong the old-fashioned way

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“Are you steaming fish with this? It’s also great with short ribs,” says Chau Wing-cheong, the third-generation owner of Tai Ma Sauce, offering cooking tips to a customer as he scoops dark brown dollops of salty soybean paste from a large glass jar. His wife, Lai Chi-wan, is busy serving one customer while apologising to another for the wait. Their son, Brian Chau Ka-wai, has just returned to the busy shop after doing his morning delivery run. Homegrown Hong Kong: the...

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