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How Michelin stars sold fickle Italians on Asian flavours of France-born Italian chef’s food

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What was your childhood like? “I was born in France in 1968 – in the Haute-Savoie [region], which borders Italy. My family is from the south of Italy, but my grandfather moved to France after the war. He was a pastry chef in Sicily but he couldn’t get work so he became a builder in France. They didn’t like Italian people then. My grandmother cooked simple food, but she and my mum were not good cooks. I was a bad student at school.” How did you get into cooking?...

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