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How Taiwan’s food traditions are falling out of favour, and one chef’s quest to keep them alive

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Throughout the afternoon, the hardworking chui kha prepare ingredients for the coming banquet. Hired and supervised by the head chef, many are women in their 50s, and married or related to the men unloading gas stoves from vehicles and erecting a tarpaulin-covered scaffold over the stretch of road that will serve as the evening’s venue. Where to find the best Taiwanese food in Taipei The duties of the chui kha – Taiwanese Hokkien for “water feet”, from the water...

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