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How ‘hard, crazy’ mother set Sydney chef on road to culinary glory

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What food do you remember from your childhood? “My mum always cook­ed Vietnamese food so I grew up eating pho. I would come home and smell the huge stock­pot of broth, whether it was duck noodle soup or beef noodle soup, and I remember my mum chopping chicken bones with a big cleaver on the chopping board on the floor. This was before she opened restaurants.” What was the first thing you cooked? “I remember cooking spaghetti bolognese for the family when I was about...

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