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Irreverent Tokyo restaurant’s cookbook shuns the intimidating formality of traditional Japanese dining

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A meal at a traditional kaiseki ryori restaurant in Japan can be fraught for someone who’s not used to the formality and etiquette. While the food is beautiful and delicious, it’s not a relaxing affair, as the diner is supposed to appreciate the entire experience: the tableware, surroundings and service are just as important as anything that is put before you to eat. There are, however, modern kaiseki restaur­ants that take the formality out of the meal, and one of the most...

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