Sweet and sour pork is almost ubiquitous in Chinese restaurants specialising in the various regional cuisines, but the type you are most likely to encounter – at least at the inexpensive places – is heavy on the ketchup, canned pineapple and white vinegar. There’s nothing wrong with that version but it’s not subtle. When it’s good, sweet and sour pork has many balanced flavours. I learned to make it from a fantastic home cook in New York – he was...
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