When I was growing up in California, my grandmother, a fantastic cook,would prepare Saturday dinner and Sunday lunch for dozens of people every week. On public holidays, her entire family (six children, their spouses and 23 grandchildren) would gather for a feast. But when we got a phone call mid-week, it meant one thing: she’d found reasonably priced Dungeness crabs, and she’d be steaming them for dinner.
This was always a smaller group – about a dozen of us – and we...
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