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Sourdough Panettone and Viennoiserie: how the history of bread in France is ‘the story of people’

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If you’re one of the many home cooks who got into bread baking last year, during the pandemic, and panicked when stores ran out of commercial yeast, knowing that you could let your breads rise with a natural starter might have come as a revelation. But wild yeasts have been around since before our ancestors even began baking the first forms of bread. As Thomas Teffri-Chambelland writes in the introduction to Sourdough Panettone and Viennoiserie (2020), “The purified yeast that is now used in…

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